An itinerary through Ofena, Capestrano, Calascio, San Pio, Santo Stefano to rediscover genuine food in the mountain villages. Wines in Ofena, still surrounded by medieval walls, then down to Capestrano, the home of the Warrior and of San Giovanni, then rising up to the Rocca di Calascio, fascinating film setting and then to Navelli, famous for the precious saffron, San Pio delle Camere, and Santo Stefano di Sessanio, the home of lentils.

Her grandparents left for Argentina in 1905. This month Nella Scaccia, 52, from Mendoza, Argentina, was the first to come back, and found a 92-year-old aunt and relatives she had never met.